Taiwan is a modern industrialised megalopolis clinging to the fringes of an ancient culture; a string of teeming cities at the feet of a glorious mountain range. It's traditional noodles from a 7-Eleven, aboriginal tribes in mini-skirts and a day of temple rituals followed by waterslide rides. The human tide of Taipei will sweep you off your feet, but if you step outside the city limits you'll discover why Taiwan is known as Ilha Formosa, 'the beautiful island'. Mountain peaks puncture a sea of clouds, slick black volcanic rock wraps the coastlines and waterfalls shroud themselves in mist: Taiwan is a computer-generated Chinese watercolour.
But it is precisely Taiwan's history with China that has caused the most friction and heartache for the Taiwanese.

Full country name: Republic of China
Area: 35,563 sq km (13,731 sq mi)
Population: 22.5 million
Capital city: Taipei (population 2.7 million)
People: Taiwanese (84%), Aboriginal (2%), Chinese(14%)
Language: Taiwanese, Mandarin Chinese
Religion: Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism
Government: Democratic Progressive Party
Major industries: Machinery, electrical equipment, electronic/computer goods, textiles, clothing
Major trading partners: USA, Japan, Hong Kong.

Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Some visitors from Western Europe, Australasia and the USA can stay in Taiwan for 14 days without a visa. Everyone else needs a visa, which allows a 30-day stay. Single entry visas are easy to get, but if you want a muliple entry visa get it before you leave home. Because the Republic of China (Taiwan) is not recognised by most countries, you'll have to get your visa from a Taiwanese 'pseudo embassy' - look for trade offices, travel services or friendship associations.
Health risks: No particular risks, but you should consider vaccinations for hepatitis.
Time: GMT/UTC plus eight hours

Electricity: 110V, 60 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric.

When to Go
Try to avoid major public holidays, especially Chinese New Year (usually early February), when transport will be full, shops and restaurants closed, and hotels unusually expensive. Summer weather can shorten tempers and increase the price of airfares. While October is climatically pleasant, it is also holiday-ridden - try November instead. In late August/early September it's Ghost Month, which means there will be no Chinese travellers on the road and temples will be at their most active.

Events
You'll need to get hold of a lunar calendar if you want to have any hope of attending Taiwan's big events - very few of them occur on the same date every year. If fireworks and crowds crank your engine, visit Yenshui, Luerhmen or Peikang for the Lantern Festival, on the 15th day of the first moon. Kuanyin's Birthday, on the 19th day of the second moon, is a good time to see temple festivities in full swing. During the Ghost Month, the seventh lunar month, ghosts from hell walk the earth. No one travels, swims, gets married or moves house, but everyone visits Taoist temples. National Day (10 October) is celebrated with gusto, fireworks and a light show in Taipei. Chinese New Year (first day of the first lunar month) should probably be avoided.